Signs you need it
- The tank tops itself up at intervals though nobody has flushed
- The bowl shifts under weight, or the floor beside it gives
- A weak flush leaves waste behind or needs a second try
- Water seeps from the base after flushing
- The handle must be jiggled before the water stops
- Condensation or drips from the tank bolts onto the floor
A tank that refills on its own is losing water to the bowl, usually past a worn flapper. That fix is described in our guide to replacing a toilet flapper, and many owners handle it themselves.
How we do the work
- Diagnose by symptom. Dye in the tank reveals silent leaks; a level on the bowl shows whether the flange is uneven.
- Rebuild the tank. Fill valve, flapper, flush valve and tank-to-bowl gasket can be replaced as a set when the parts are tired.
- Reset the bowl. If it rocks or leaks at the base, we pull it, inspect the flange, fit a new seal and reset it firmly.
- Clear the trapway. Weak flushes often come from a partial obstruction in the trap, removed with a closet auger.
- Test several flushes. We watch the fill level, the refill time and the base before leaving.
Mississauga homes and this job
Toilets installed in the 1990s and early 2000s across neighbourhoods such as Erin Mills and Meadowvale are now old enough that their internal rubber has hardened. Hard water across the region also leaves mineral build-up on fill valves and in rim jets, which reduces flushing strength over time. Where a bowl is cracked, outdated or simply too costly to keep repairing, toilet installation is the better use of your money.
Small checks you can do
Lift the tank lid occasionally and watch a flush. The water should stop just below the top of the overflow tube, and the flapper should close cleanly. Tighten the seat bolts if they loosen, but avoid overtightening the bowl bolts, which can crack the porcelain.
What affects the cost
- Whether parts for your specific model are readily available
- Pulling and resetting the bowl versus working only on the tank
- A damaged or corroded flange beneath the toilet
- Seized supply shut-off valves that must be replaced
We tell you before starting whether repair or replacement makes more sense for your fixture. Related small jobs, such as a faucet repair, can often be handled on the same visit. Persistent bathroom odours are discussed in our note on a sewer smell in the house.
The job, tool by tool
Tools on the truck for toilet work
- Closet auger
- Clearing the trapway without scratching porcelain
- Wax ring or foam seal, closet bolts
- Resetting the bowl on the flange
- Fill valve and flapper kit
- Stopping phantom refills
- Flange repair ring
- Fixing a cracked or rotted flange
On every job
- Drop cloths down before any tool comes out
- Water or fuel shut and tagged while we work
- Every joint we made checked dry before we pack up
- Old parts shown to you, then hauled away
A call-out, start to finish
- 1Call and describe the fixture, floor and symptom
- 2We arrive, lay drop cloths and shut the water where needed
- 3Trap pulled, line cabled or camera run to find the cause
- 4Fix explained, then cut, joined or replaced
- 5Water run through, joints checked, written note left
Answers our Mississauga crew gives most
Is a running toilet worth fixing quickly?
Yes. A steady leak through the flapper can waste a large amount of water and shows up on your water bill.
Why does my toilet rock?
The flange may sit too low or high, the floor may be uneven, or the bolts may have loosened. Each needs a different fix.
Can you repair any brand?
Most standard two-piece toilets use common parts. Some one-piece and imported models need specific components.
